Hi all,
I'm experiencing a bit of lag in the clutch when pulling away at lights etc. It's coming up tp 22k so I was wondering what your learned opinions would be on the cause, cost etc?
:biker3:
Also...
When I start her up from cold there seems to be a metallic "rattle" from the engine. Although this does disappear as soon as I rev. I did the oil and filter a week or so ago so all is good on levels.
The rattle for a slpit second on cold start up seems to be normal on the GTR.
What oil are you using ??
Deon
Any idea when/if the clutch fluid was last changed? A change and bleed will work wonders on the clutch system - at most an hours labour at the dealer.
Martin.
Hi there,
Sorry been away a while. The oil I am using is "Castrol Power 1 Racing" 10/40 fully synth. The bike seems to ride ok, just a bit sluggish when pulling away. Slightly like being in the wrong gear. It quickly gets back into it.
I bought the bike last April (5k on the clock 2nd owner) so I've done about 15k+. I guess the clutch isn't something for a newbie to tackle then? lol
Also, any one recommend front brake pads? (This I can do myself! lol)
Is the Castrol oil you are using API or Jaso MA spec oil ? If not, then it is not designed for wet clutches and that could be your problem.
As for brake pads, I would go for the Kawasaki OE pads.
Deon
You should use Engine oil in accordance to manufacturers specifications which can be found within your owners manual
types API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 are recommended
In simple terms a good quality SAE 10W-40 is what is required
Fully synthetic and racing oils are for that purpose.... and generally DON'T improve the performance/function of road machines.
The Oils is fully recommended for the GTR by Castrol (And my local Dealer) so I don't think this is the problem. I just wondered if anyone had any idea what it could be. I haven't ever had a clutch go on me so I don't know what the warning signs would be. Just being cautious. :smartass:
Point taken Dive, but TBH I still maintain that fully synthetic isn't the best choice, admittedly I'm no expert regarding oil viscosity.
I recall when I had ZX9s that I chose synthetic oil and it made the clutch slip
Just my view :whistling:
Semi synthetic oil is fine ( as long as it is the correct spec ). Do not always believe what your dealer tells you. Check the specs yourself. Just do not use mineral oil !!!!
Deon
Thanks guy's.
Coney, I appreciate your view and tbh, I think I am in agreement with you after the experience. :agree: I think I will be returning to semi-synthetic after I have had my £50s worth out of the fully synth... or the lag becomes more of an issue. I have to change the brake pads this week so money is an issue this month. Bloody costly pads are! :wacko:
Was chatting to my BMW mechanic last week about oil levels and the oil consumption common with Beemers for the first 7-10k (mine has settled down now at 8k).
His opinion, and bare in mind he used to be at Suzuki and Kawasaki dealers and is a 'proper' old school mechanic, is that the oils used are so thin and being synthetic don't leave deteriorate so therefore don't create any deposits which in turn makes the bedding in procedures so much longer.
Whilst he can't do it, he would advise running in for 6k (or first service) on mineral oils then onto semi synths.
Makes sense really, burnt deposits would seal the slight imperfections and 'bed' any internals in.
Anyone got the balls to do it?!!
- yeah , there are loads of US based riders who break-in engines using dino-oil and then only go to synthetic.
- as per your mech , the idea being that the "slipperiness" of synth oils not aiding the break in process.
- the counterpoint : not a single manufacturer recommends any of these methods and they simply specify oil standards and mileage requirements.
- on my C14 : have been running synth since new. No oil consumption at all.
- On your K16 , you might experience some stupendous amounts of oil consumption which requires some owners to bring spare oil on long rides. Imho : unacceptable in this modern era of high tech low tolerance manufacturing/machining.
- btw : how has your switchgear been treating you ? There are new part numbers for these items ...
.
Quote from: Winston Smith on October 07, 2012, 11:41:09 PM
Was chatting to my BMW mechanic last week about oil levels and the oil consumption common with Beemers for the first 7-10k (mine has settled down now at 8k).
Chris, how long have BMW been allocating your own personal mechanic to K16 owners :mfr_lol:
You are absolutely correct though about the use of oils in new engines on modern day machines, certain makes/models requiring larger than normal amounts of engine oil during the initial bedding and running in period.
@ pistole - no issues whatsoever.
tbh - other than the oil (which I expected/accepted!) there have been no problems whatsoever.
Oh I tell a lie - the Average Fuel consumption readout threw a hissy when I didn't reset it for about 6k
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r183/Hoody_photo/DSCF3066.jpg)
Either that or these engines really are economical (my bank account says differently however!)
Reset it and been OK since.