Hi Peeps.
Just taken delivery of my new alloy rack from Premier cycle accessories USA a few days ago. (Got stung for import duty £38). Ouch!!! I decided to buy the mounting kit for the givi top box which consists of 1 rear locating wedge and 2 front locating pins.
Now then, the rack is fine, and it looks good IMO.
BUT..........
When I fitted it, I found the 2 small pins at the front of the rack foul on the bikes bracket underneath so it will only slide back so far.
I have a Givi V46 top box with pillion backrest and once fitted to the rack, it is slightly too far forward so Sonia can not sit fully upright. (Bugger)
Just thought I would let ya know incase you decide to order one.
few pictures showing the rack in pic 1, the problem bolt in pic 2, and pic 3 shows the max amount the rack will slide back in the runners due to the locating pin bolts.
Daz
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n612/darrenbeddis/1.jpg)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n612/darrenbeddis/2.jpg)
(http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n612/darrenbeddis/3.jpg)
can the pins be cut or ground down ?
Darren maybe the bolts are designed to stop the rack/plate from going any further back, so that weight is kept over the centre of the plate.
However, I assume the bobbins seen in pic two are the bolts that you refer to, in which case why not either remove the stud from the bobbin and replace it with a countersunk/shallow head bolt from below therefore allowing more adjustment.
If the threaded part of the boobin is integral then cut it off flush, drill out the centre of the bobbin, re-thread and simply bolt it through, again from underneath which will remove any obstruction and improve adjustment.
But don't adjust the rack too far back as when its carrying a full, high volume, top box it may become unstable
Thank's for the tips, dont think I'll mess with the bolts, as you say, dont want too far back when fully loaded. So may just remove the back pad from the top box and blank the holes. The pads is 2inch thick and like a wedge shape so that should do it.
Just wanted to share the info so you are informed of the down sides to this item.
Daz :wink:
Why is it that nobody who makes these aftermarket plates can actually make them correctly?
Quote from: Lonewolf on August 26, 2012, 02:17:48 PM
Why is it that nobody who makes these aftermarket plates can actually make them correctly?
I did, or rather my mate did, he took mine to work and digitised it, then water jet me a copy out in 5mm checker alloy including the holes, proper job.
And no he won't do any more unfortunately.
Alan
Quote from: Lonewolf on August 26, 2012, 02:17:48 PM
Why is it that nobody who makes these aftermarket plates can actually make them correctly?
I think the Philsfarkels plate is a goodun Steve, although I've no personal experience of it
Alternatively this is as solid as a rock, but I'll admit its not a quick 'bolt on plate' :wink:
(http://i336.photobucket.com/albums/n326/oldeconey/GTRluggagerack001-1.jpg)