I've mentioned before that the preload on my rear shock has seized. Yesterday my dealer sent of photos to the big K for a warrantee claim for a new shock, as we all expected. While I was chatting to him he said this is the third one they'll do this year! He also said it's only been a problem with the more recent ones. Previously the shock had a removable top or something which they could take off, clean out a grease up and then it was all fine. Now it's completely sealed (some kind of "upgrade") and they can't do this. So the shock looks lovely, but it's still seized, so a whole new ones gets fitted.
On the positive side though, at least Kawasaki are honouring the claims and seem to be dealing with them in the majority of cases reasonably quickly and without too much hassle. I can't even see my shock, it has some sort of neoprene sock over it to protect it. It was on when I got the bike.
Maybe I'll buy one of those when they fit my new one (no word yet).
Just to add my tuppence worth....on my magnesium 2010 bike the rear shock seized within about 6 months of owning the bike. Kawasaki Colchester sorted that for me and a whole new system was put on with no quibble.
Essex Boy
I think the problem is water getting into the pre-load adjuster. I think when they change mine (yes mine has also seized ) I will stretch an old inner tube over the gap between the body (silver bit) and the adjuster wheel (black bit). I am certain that water is getting inbetween the two. I have noticed that the adjuster on the 010 is a different shape than the earlier ones, does anyone know why?. :smiley:
I don't but perhaps a little bit of ACF 50 may assist in the longevity of the PLA ....
Yes but how would you get it in? :listencarefully: I mean what orifice would you put it in :embarrassed: Oh you know what I am on about. :embarrassed:
Quote from: Rusty on June 12, 2012, 09:29:16 PM
I don't but perhaps a little bit of ACF 50 may assist in the longevity of the PLA ....
Alas my bike was ACF50'd from new, and twice a year since. My siezed shock count is 2 so far :mfr_lol:
Not sure if the shock itself, or the preload adjuster is to blame, but I think the secret is simply to adjust the pre-load much more often to keep it working. When I have my 3rd shock fitted, I shall get into the habit of adjusting the pre-load once a week.
Martin.
Strange ... especially as you have ACF 50'd it ...
- gentlemen , which bit is seizing ? The Adjuster or the Shock itself ?
.
Adjuster
I had the same problem. Dealer just cleaned the adjuster with some Q20 (WD40 I believe is what you guys use in the UK). No problems since then. One thing is for sure, it certainly has not got the 40 clicks as indicated in the owners manual !!
Spring Adjustment
Adjuster
Position
Damping
Force Setting Load Road Speed
1st Weak Soft Light Good Low
↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑
↓ ↓ ↓ ↓ ↓ ↓
40th Strong Hard Heavy Bad High
I'm going to service my bike next week and might as well lube the adjuster. Is it just a case of squirting WD40 down an exposed gap, or do you dismantle parts of it first?
Nope, did not dismantle. Just a can with the nozzle and sprayed in where he could see a gap whilst turning the adjuster in and out. Just remember where your setting was !!!!
Deon
Quote from: pistole on June 15, 2012, 12:16:03 AM
- gentlemen , which bit is seizing ? The Adjuster or the Shock itself ?
.
The spring pre-load adjuster, just above rear footrest. The shock itself is fine.
I've just checked mine tonight and I cant budge it for love nor money. :hammer:
Going to check mine tomorrow if it's that common, perhaps it might cure the vibration.
Alan
My new rear shock is at my dealers (Cradley) - I just need to book the bike in when I'm back from holiday in a couple of weeks.
I'll try and remember to get them to have a look at it all - although their theory is that the issue is at the shock end, not the adjuster. Or rather it's how the adjuster actually adjusts the shock. The old unit used to be serviceable, but the new one is completely sealed, so they can't take it apart to see if there's an issue.
I'm thinking I'll get one of those neoprene covers for the shock and maybe try something on the adjuster too. Plus regular adjusting.
Having said all that my bike usage is likely to plummet very soon... more on that in another thread when I've sorted some things out.
My local Kwak dealer examined my GTR on Tuesday mornng of this week and confirmed that the rear shock preload adjuster was seized. Two days later I get a call from Kwak dealer who confirm that the warranty claim has been authorised by Kawasaki and that the part is now with them and waiting to be fitted.
That is bloody good service without a shadow of a doubt. :clap:
Which dealer was that Steve?
Quote from: 100milesaway on June 22, 2012, 10:14:43 PM
Which dealer was that Steve?
Colin Apppleyards at Keighley. Dont normally rate them too highly but cant complain on this occasion.
My bike is with Kawasaki themselves right now and they are changing the rear shock adjuster while they have it, shame they can't sort the vibration as well.
Alan
Quote from: BigAlan on June 22, 2012, 10:39:54 PM
My bike is with Kawasaki themselves right now and they are changing the rear shock adjuster while they have it, shame they can't sort the vibration as well.
Alan
Alan, It would be amazing if the vibe problem was also cured by changing the adjuster :mfr_lol:
or is that me being cynical..
That's you being cynical.
But even if they stand firm and say this is acceptable I won't let it lie, I will be writing to all the major motorcycling magazines with my story, I have others here who will verify they have the same problem, I don't give up easily.
Alan
Alan,
You have no doubt posted this elsewhere, and I have missed it, but can I ask how you experience the vibration? Is it noticeable instantly as you start the engine, or is it a symptom - i.e. a dead feeling hand after a short time riding?
Just asking in case it is the latter. I spent many weeks experimenting to solve this on a Triumph Trophy I had years back, and it was simply down to brake lever positioning. For me, if I rode with too much on an angle in my right wrist (because the brake lever was too high for comfort), I would get the dead hand feeling quickly.
Martin.
Well, I checked my rear suspension adjuster yesterday - 7500 miles 1 year old and I hadn't touched it since the bike was about a week old - and it works fine. :kiss:
Well that's good.
Quote from: MJJ_ZX6RR on June 23, 2012, 09:43:53 AM
Alan,
You have no doubt posted this elsewhere, and I have missed it, but can I ask how you experience the vibration? Is it noticeable instantly as you start the engine, or is it a symptom - i.e. a dead feeling hand after a short time riding?
Just asking in case it is the latter. I spent many weeks experimenting to solve this on a Triumph Trophy I had years back, and it was simply down to brake lever positioning. For me, if I rode with too much on an angle in my right wrist (because the brake lever was too high for comfort), I would get the dead hand feeling quickly.
Martin.
Martin
It starts at just above 2500 rpm and continues up the rev range, at 4000 rpm which is approx 85mph i can last for half an hour then numb hands.
I have been told its due to the mapping of the engine by Mr K (unofificial of course) and that the fitting of a Power Commander V with the secondary files deleted will cure it, I have the ability to purchase the PC but no idea what the secondary files are, but i want it fixed my Mr K, or if they pay then fine.
Alan
Quote from: BigAlan on June 23, 2012, 08:13:46 PM
... and that the fitting of a Power Commander V with the secondary files deleted will cure it
I imagine they mean seconday flies, as in throttle butterflies. Our bikes have two sets of throttle butterflies, one controlled by our right hand, one controlled by the bike's ECU. This second set of ECU flies stops us getting full power in 1st (and thus flipping the bike) and steps in when traction control is triggered.
Lots of owners have done the PCV and flies removal to get more power in the lower gears, but personally, I doubt our traction controlled bikes would like the change. At the very least, TC must surely stop working.
Do you ride in ECO mode all the time btw? Mine is definately more vibey in ECO mode, though even then nowhere near enough to cause me issues or concerns.
Martin.
Quote from: BigAlan on June 23, 2012, 08:13:46 PM
Martin
It starts at just above 2500 rpm and continues up the rev range, at 4000 rpm which is approx 85mph i can last for half an hour then numb hands.
I have been told its due to the mapping of the engine by Mr K (unofificial of course) and that the fitting of a Power Commander V with the secondary files deleted will cure it, I have the ability to purchase the PC but no idea what the secondary files are, but i want it fixed my Mr K, or if they pay then fine.
Alan
Alan, are you going to the meet? I have a PC V which we could put on your bike and try it out. I'd have to bring laptop and put a 2011 map and then put my 08 map on again.
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on June 23, 2012, 09:27:40 PM
Alan, are you going to the meet? I have a PC V which we could put on your bike and try it out. I'd have to bring laptop and put a 2011 map and then put my 08 map on again.
I am indeed going to the meet on Saturday as I live approx 50 miles away, it would be good to try this and see what happens.
I can see me being there all day chatting and gathering idea's.
Don't forget now!
Alan
Quote from: BigAlan on June 23, 2012, 10:21:05 PM
I am indeed going to the meet on Saturday as I live approx 50 miles away, it would be good to try this and see what happens.
I can see me being there all day chatting and gathering idea's.
Don't forget now!
Alan
OK, I'll put a reminder in my phone to get everything ready for Sat.
I assume you know how to take off the fairing on a 2011 model? I know where everything else goes
You might want to give this a try as well
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=9427.0
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on June 23, 2012, 10:27:59 PM
OK, I'll put a reminder in my phone to get everything ready for Sat.
I assume you know how to take off the fairing on a 2011 model? I know where everything else goes
I will find out, thanks for your help.
Alan
- my adjuster is seized solid !
- will report more when i put the dealer over the barrel !
.
- will be replaced under warranty.
.
I'm convinced these are a shit design. I had mine replaced under warranty only a few weeks ago. Yesterday I went to give it a screw in and out as recommended to keep it moving freely and I struggled to turn it. When it did move it squeaked as if there was some debris caught between the black knob and the cylinder. I gave it a good squirt of lubricant and it freed it up but I was shocked that it was well on its way to seizing again.
No problems with mine. Just press the ESA button. :whistling:
Quote from: Winston Smith on September 12, 2012, 12:26:58 AM
No problems with mine. Just press the ESA button. :whistling:
Bah, bloody humbug!
http://www.k1600forum.com/ (http://www.k1600forum.com/)
:whistling:
Yep - That's a forum...........
I have finally got word back from big K regarding what course of action to take over my seized rear pre-load adjuster. The rear shock and adjuster are to be removed from the bike, soaked in oil overnight and then re-fitted. The instruction is then to twist the pre-loader once a month!!!!
Not sure that this will solve the problem but just delay the replacement of the unit.
Quote from: mattye on September 25, 2012, 07:40:37 AM
I have finally got word back from big K regarding what course of action to take over my seized rear pre-load adjuster. The rear shock and adjuster are to be removed from the bike, soaked in oil overnight and then re-fitted. The instruction is then to twist the pre-loader once a month!!!!
Not sure that this will solve the problem but just delay the replacement of the unit.
- delay it till the warranty runs out.
- better to press your case for an outright replacement.
- am guessing that there is a manufacturing fault in the preload adjuster mechanism (maybe incompatible material)
- strangely , the US CoG users don't seem to be afflicted.
.
mattye, excuse my ignorance, is your bike still under warranty?
Lonewolf,
The 2 year warrany ran out on 16th of this month but I bought an extended warranty for a further 12 months so i'm happy that I have warranty cover.
Does beg the question though that replacement parts must also have a warranty attached to them.
Anyone know what this might be?
Quote from: mattye on September 25, 2012, 04:47:45 PM
Lonewolf,
The 2 year warrany ran out on 16th of this month but I bought an extended warranty for a further 12 months so i'm happy that I have warranty cover.
Does beg the question though that replacement parts must also have a warranty attached to them.
Anyone know what this might be?
Should be 12 months warranty on genuine replacement parts
Tell Kawasaki to get stuffed..and demand a replacement unit :yes:
"Soak it in oil and twist it once a month" WHAT ?????? PAH.......... never heard such a load of olde bollox. :shocked:
I am waiting on word back from the dealer(Orrell) to see what is to be done about my second seized pre-load adjuster. Me thinks that Kawasaki need to think about fitting something other than a part that is obviously not up to the job, as has been said earlier the pre-load adjuster on the pre 010 model is different to the present one and I cant recall anyone having trouble with those. :smiley:
Kawasakis advice was very similar to what I did to free my adjuster except I inverted the unit and squirted WD40 down between the black adjuster and body. Then refitted, waited 24hrs and gradually movement first and then the clicks came back. I have posted this before but this is a common thread. My 2010 ran out of warranty a fortnight before I bought it and "K" would only offer me a 50% discount on a new shock - that doesn't included fitting. I was forced to find a solution without replacing shock. Don't give up - mine was absolutely solid but did come free eventually.
mattye, you are entitled I would suggest to a replacement shock, never mind farting about with it, soaking it in this and that.
My Kawasaki dealer simply tested it, realised it couldn't be turned and said, "Yep Thats Buggered", or something very similiar :whistling: and literally within 2 days the replacement unit was there waiting to be fitted.
Quote from: Lonewolf on September 25, 2012, 09:39:26 PM
mattye, you are entitled I would suggest to a replacement shock, never mind farting about with it, soaking it in this and that.
My Kawasaki dealer simply tested it, realised it couldn't be turned and said, "Yep Thats Buggered", or something very similiar :whistling: and literally within 2 days the replacement unit was there waiting to be fitted.
Spot on, Steve
Its a fault that exists on some late 2010/2011 onwards machines. THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM !
Kawasaki must sort this out as faulty units could be construed as being the cause of a safety related issue.
I simply don't see how Kawasaki can justify suggesting soaking a faulty/seized suspension adjustment unit in oil and then refitting it, they must be running out of stock of replacement units, or getting a bad response from the components OE manufacturer.
Soak in oil. :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:.......Ba Humbug :angry:
As ever thanks for all your responses.
I will bring these points up with my dealer on Monday and see what they say but I'm guessing that the problem will just re-occur in a few months time and it will need to be replaced.
Quote from: mattye on September 26, 2012, 10:18:22 AM
As ever thanks for all your responses.
I will bring these points up with my dealer on Monday and see what they say but I'm guessing that the problem will just re-occur in a few months time and it will need to be replaced.
mattye, when, (not if) its replaced under warranty the new part is obviously then covered under a warranty as well. If it fails again thats Kawasaki's problem not yours. You will still be entitled to a further replacement under warranty. There are many on here who have had numerous replacement front discs, same principle. I think Winston Smith had three replacement sets!
Orrell got back to me today to say that after a conversation with someone at the big K they have ordered a new shock, should be here soon. This one will last at least 6 months as after this week-end it's unlikely that the big fella will be out again until spring :whistling: :smiley:.
So that'll be your second warranty shock replacement then?
Yep, a bit irritating I know, but Kawasaki have always done the right thing so I'm not fussed really. Main thing is I just love this bike, and it will be staying in my life until I am to old to throw my withered old leg over it. I must also say that my dealer (Orrell) have been more that helpful all along. :banana:
If it's of any help to you I saw some pink high viz bib's today and for some reason I immediately thought of you....can't think why! :mfr_lol:
Awh thats very sweet of you Steven :kiss:, and you bought me one as a retirement present Right ? :banana: :whistling:
Hi,had mine changed too.As previously suggested,I,ve put a piece of an inner tube,as a sock,over the adjuster.Just enough to cover the body and adjuster.should work fine me thinks.Inner tube(new) was only £1.99 on fleabay.
- just got the new rear shock replaced , under warranty.
- bike seems to "feel" better.
- better to badger your dealers if you're still under warranty.
.
After my local dealer tried soaking the adjuster overnight the adjuster is still siezed so new part is on order and should be ready to fit early next week.
I'll wager the new 014 GTR doesn't come with the same pre-load adjuster as the current one. Kawasaki have probably been very embarrassed by the ones that they use at the moment, and I suggest that if everybody played with their suspension settings as I do they would have had to replace them all. It's more than likely that most people buy the bike adjust the pre-load, then never touch it again, so would never know if it stopped working. Anyway mine is going in tomorrow for its second replacement :smiley:.
Couldn't agree more Geoff.
I didn't know you were on the road again for yet another adjuster...I reckon you must be cleaning that bike of yours toooooooo much :mfr_lol:
The latest model GTR could have a number of different/uprated components on board, and I'd be surprised if the rear supension adjustment isn't an area that has come under scrutiny.
Surely this must be the result of poor component manufacture, it wasn't a major problem on the early models, pictures that I've got of my 2009 bike aren't clear enough to show any difference between its adjusters and the ones on my latest bike so I can't compare
Just an update to all to say that the rear shock was replaced this morning with a shiny new one. The dealer said that they have put some greese in the adjuster to stop any crud getting into it so hopefully this will solve the problem. I was also advised to turn the adjuster knob every couple of weeks.
Took 45 minutes to replace after taking just 3 days to get into stock.
- have put a rubber balloon over the rear adjuster , hopefully preventing the ingress of water into the unit.
- as for the "turn it every now and then" advice , my old adjuster seized even when i did just that.
- maybe there is some material/metal incompatibility somewhere resulting in galling/seizing.
.