Seems that every 20k my front bearings are shot. I replaced them over the weekend but wasn't too happy with how I did them, so am intending to replace them again.
There isn't much room on the bearing to hit against, so I got a long flat screwdriver, pushed the spacer out of the way and hammered it out. Unfortunately I did damage the spacer a little, but nothing that wasn't fixable with a file.
When inserting the bearings, I did freeze them for about an hour before putting them in. One side went in relatively easy, but I had to use a 27mm socket get it flush. The other side was a pain, and whilst I avoided the inner ring, I did manage to scuff the the seal between the two rings. I also noticed that the axle got progressively harder to remove as the bearings went in (it was a pain to get the wheel off the bike as well as the axle refused to move once it have been unthreaded from the opposite bolt). As I'm not confident that I did it right first time I'm going to do them again.
This time I will put the bearings in the freezer for longer, but am also thinking of using a heat gun to warm up the bearing housing. Any ideas at what temperature I want to do this at? Also, what size socket will match the diameter of the bearing, but not get stuck in the housing.
Alternatively, there is the chance I've done it right first time. Is there an easy way of checking? Both bearings turn, just that one turns more easily than the other. It could be I'm just being paranoid.
Of course, I could get a mechanic to do it, but where would be the fun in that? :laugh:
On a side note, I got the front tyre changed on Saturday. I realised the bearings were shot when they were about to balance the wheel. Got home, put on the bearings (making sure the discs didn't touch anything), and when putting the wheel back on, noticed one of the rotors was visibly bent. Now either I did it whilst transporting, doing the bearings, or it was done during the wheel change. Was going to write it off as a bad mistake, but got lucky today. Another biker was getting his tyre changed and he was filming the procedure so he could save on cost next time and remove the wheel himself. We swapped numbers as he's local, and got a text of him today saying he captured the fitter having an accident with my wheel. Will get the evidence tomorrow and go over.
Hi Asif, I've managed to download a workshop manual from somewhere and it says you need a special tool, which is basically a punch with a disc on the end so the force is driven down onto the outer race. When we replace bearings in work, we sometimes use a socket the same size as the outer race and drive a blow against that. Another way would be to start the bearing by using the old bearing on top of the new one and hit against the old bearing. Another method would be to use a threaded bar - big washer and nut one end, guide the other end of the bar through the wheel and bearing on the other side, then through a suitably sized socket. Fit a washer and nut on the end of that, then wind up the nuts to draw the bearing in.
Hope that helps. Is there a way I could get this downloaded manual sent to you or put on the site (if thats legal that is) :mfr_lol:
Hi Shaggs, I have the manual already but just not the tool. On the GTR it is a pain to remove the bearing as the spacer can only be moved so much. Definitely can't get to the outer race, so you have to use the inner one.
The threaded bar is a good idea to insert the bearing. Can't see how it can be used to remove though as the bearing can't move inwards anymore? I guess you could use an old bearing as well, as long as you shaved enough off so it won't get stuck in the housing.
Thanks for those. I think I will try the old bearing one to insert
Yeh unfortunately (or fortunately) I've not had the wheel off yet myself, so have not seen it properly apart from on the drawing. It looks like you should be able to use a long bar to hit the bearing out using the inner race as you say, which is fine as it doesn't matter damaging the old one. If you are using the old bearing to guide the new one in, then you can knock it down until the bearing is flush with the housing, then use a socket to give it the final knock home. You could also use a small punch for this final bit, gently tapping around the outer race, but wouldn't recommend it as one slip usually means the punch goes between the two races, wrecking the bearing cage. Might be worth checking the quality of the new bearings too. Sometimes its worth popping into BSL Brammer who supply quality bearings for most applications.
Shaggs147, thanks again. There's a BSL Brammer about 0.25 miles from where I work. I always wondered what they manufactured!
I'll pop in tomorrow with the bearings and see which ones they recommend.
haha nice one, hope they can help you out :yes:
Quote from: shaggs147 on April 03, 2012, 12:59:29 AM
haha nice one, hope they can help you out :yes:
Indeed they can. Got a pair of SKF bearings.
I said I wanted the best, and their response was SKF are the Rolls Royce of bearings.
As long as the fekers last more than 20k.
That is poor. Touring bike and the bearings go at 20k. Shite
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on April 03, 2012, 11:49:45 AM
Indeed they can. Got a pair of SKF bearings.
I said I wanted the best, and their response was SKF are the Rolls Royce of bearings.
As long as the fekers last more than 20k.
That is poor. Touring bike and the bearings go at 20k. Shite
too many wheelies mate... :mfr_lol: thas what does the tuonos bearings :oops:
Quote from: Mogster on April 03, 2012, 12:23:51 PM
too many wheelies mate... :mfr_lol: thas what does the tuonos bearings :oops:
:huh: Wouldn't the wheelie reduce the wear ..... unless its getting slammed down :mfr_lol:
Glad you got sorted, SKF are top notch! :clap:
I've got all the parts. Tomorrow will be putting them on.
Bent rotor?
Quote from: Winston Smith on April 03, 2012, 11:23:05 PM
Bent rotor?
Being replaced by EBC ones. Only cost to me is the pads (needed replacing anyway)
Here goes Good Friday.
Gonna be spent on removing wheel, fitting bearings, fitting discs, fitting pads
Thank goodness the weather is a bite shite
I hope you have more success than you did with the Audi. :mfr_lol:
How did you get on with the bearings Kwik, did it all go together ok?
Did the Skf's feel better to you?
Quote from: shaggs147 on April 11, 2012, 11:51:20 PM
How did you get on with the bearings Kwik, did it all go together ok?
Did the Skf's feel better to you?
Aye, went on perfectly. Only thing I wasn't sure about was how tight the spacer should be in relation to the bearings. I asked dealer and he said a nice fit, not too tight.
As for the feeling, funny you should ask that. The front feels totally different (in a better sense). I'm wondering if it's the bearings or new tyre.
All sounds good then! Probably front end feel better due to tyre 70% and bearings 30%........ unless the old bearings were completely :shit: :mfr_lol:
I've still the rear to do. Not that they need replacing yet, but it's only a matter of time
Kiwas, before too long you'll have replaced the whole bike, bit by bit, and it'll be just like a new 'un. :mfr_lol:
:mfr_lol:
This time I intend to do a writeup on how to change them which will hopefully help others.
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on April 12, 2012, 10:07:46 AM
:mfr_lol:
This time I intend to do a writeup on how to change them which will hopefully help others.
Allow me to help you with that..
Phone Dealers.... book in bike...take bike in..... blag test ride on ZX10..... pick bike up... Job done :mfr_lol:
Quote from: Mogster on April 12, 2012, 10:51:40 AM
Allow me to help you with that..
Phone Dealers.... book in bike...take bike in..... blag test ride on ZX10..... pick bike up... Job done :mfr_lol:
:mfr_lol:
And come out $$$$$$$$$$$ poorer!
Quote from: Kwikasfuki on April 12, 2012, 10:56:31 AM
:mfr_lol:
And come out $$$$$$$$$$$ poorer!
ah yes but being an International media mega star I can afford it... :tt2:
actually it's more like....
Smarty 'Do you know what you are doing??'
Me 'er........possibly (http://www.smilieshq.com/smilies/confused0069.gif) (http://www.smilieshq.com) '
Smarty 'Book it in you oaf (http://www.smilieshq.com/smilies/fighting0094.gif) (http://www.smilieshq.com) '
First time I did my front wheel bearings I did exactly what I did on all my GTR1000s.
I used a Dremel with a grinding bit to cut a U into the inside of one side of the spacer.
That way on one side you can get a piece of rod fully on to the inner ring of the bearing to drive it out.
Have been using the studding method for fitting the new bearings for years now.
Before that I used to just hammer away on an old bearing outer shell (ground down slightly so it doesn't get stuck)
Front wheel bearing changes are now 1 hour from ride in to ride out and I normally clean the calipers as well.
would love to see a picture write on on this, one of the few jobs ive never done my self as i usually let my bikes go at the sub20k mark.
cant picture boomers spacer ring u method but it sounds good
I may do what Boomer suggests and made a small groove in the spacer.
See below of a pic of what you have to work with. Only a few mm of the inner brace is exposed once you move the spacer out of the way. However, I would say once you know what to do, it is relatively easy. Obviously keep in mind that you don't want to warp the discs, so a bin is essential. I use a flat screwdriver with an impact head and gently tap the inner brace, moving in a clockwise motion.
I did read it was possible to knock bearings out using concrete anchor plug, but I think the diameter of the inner brace is too much.
If anyone does try replacing their bearing, make sure the spacer still fits on the axle. It easy to damage the spacer (nothing that can't be filed down) and you don't want to have put the bearings in only to find the spacer is damaged and won't fit the axle.
See below of the socket that I purchased from Halfords to knock the bearings in. Fits the outer brace perfectly without getting stuck in the housing.
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/CIMG0898.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/CIMG0853.jpg)
how does that spacer groove thingy work?
All you're doing is creating a notch in the spacer where it meets the bearing. It will then allow for easier access to the bearing. Obviously won't work for the first time as the spacer needs to be off to create the notch
i know who i will be asking for advice if this job ever needs doing
***cough**** Kwiki*****cough*****