Just fitted my audiovox cruise control using the cc100 kit and the tutorials from the Murphs kits pages. Ive added my 2cents to this as i found the throttle cable part a challange and could not use what the guys had done with their 2008 models. I know there are very few differences between my 2010 model but im wondering if space allocation around the throttle linkage area is different, it is in other areas.
This is where i bought the " Kit " from, unit with vac canister and mounting bracket
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=422 (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=422)
this is blayde kennedy's how to
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/c14cc-install.htm (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/c14cc-install.htm)
this is fred harmons how to
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/fhc14cc-install.htm (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/fhc14cc-install.htm)
My few words and pictures will help with the tricky bits, hopefully
I previously fitted this to my zzr1200 and had several years of trouble free use out of it
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/z%20JUNK/DSCF0002.jpg)
Flaring the 10mm copper tube
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/z%20JUNK/DSCF0008.jpg)
take off the screen , fairing tops ( glovebox panel) and side fairings only
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/fairingof.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/fairingoff.jpg)
Throttle linkage, Couldnt get the cable to work as the other how to's suggested.
My solution was to make a Tab that attached to the throttle link which changed the angle of attack for the cable, cable is not long enough to come up from behind and space to the left of the throttle link is impossibly tight
Hole drilled in existing throttle arm
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/throttledrilled.jpg)
I made a tab from the bracket parts that came with the kit and bolted it to he throttle arm
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/tabshow.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/tabattach.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/tab.jpg)
I used a length of 10mm copper pipe to protect the cable from all the wires and pipes in its path and attached it to the frame braces using kit parts and a few cable ties. when you attach the cable to your tab on the throttle arm try to construct it in a way where the cable loop has free rotation on the tab, so its always perfectly aligned when the cable is pulling and releasing.
I spent a few hours getting the Tab, the new cable and the flared copper pipe all to be in perfect alingment, you must achieve a smooth path of operation when the cruise is working, if that makes sense
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/cableattach.jpg)
I located both the servo and vac can under the right fairing tops, loads of space
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/vacandservo.jpg)
The tacho wire , its red and white and i hooked into it before it goes under the tank, exposed the wire and soldered onto it in a T , shrink wrapped it
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/tachcable.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/tachatt.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/tachsolder.jpg)
connected the vac tubes to throttle body 1 and 4 and bought them into a T before they connected to the vac can
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/vactube.jpg)
I ended up using a bracket I had from some oxford heated grips, it worked out better than the bracket i had from my 12
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/neill1200/cruisecontrol/controller.jpg)
Test rode the bike in mad max naked style , i did manage to do a drive way test. The cruise like very steady revs to work ok and its very difficult to do this with your hand on the throttle. So i got the bike on centre stand and increased the tick over to about 3k revs and hit the set button, the revs wildly jumped but i was able to get it to lock on , so i knew at least it was sort of working, even tho the revs where all over the place
happy installing
Wish I'd had the fore sight to photograph my installation 18 months ago!
I fabricated a bracket to hold oxford grips and audiovox controller which looks quite neat. Made it out of a piece of sheet galvanised steel.
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r183/Hoody_photo/029.jpg)
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r183/Hoody_photo/185.jpg)
nice winston,
how did you get on with the throttle connection part ?, route ? does your instal differ from mine much, could I have improved anything?
I didn't have the bottle to drill the hole in the tang, so I picky backed the cable onto the throttle cable. Never snagged and works well.
If I recall rightly I fed the cable through fairing front and it came out under the throttle assembly.
I started following Freds then lost the papers and ended up with a mix'n'match between the two sets of guidelines!
Also, I bought the harness from Schnitz Racing for the tacho pick up. Plug and play!
I'v never been a lover of cruise control on motorbikes, tried the cruise control on the b.m.w rt1200 and was not impressed with it at all. the cruise control your showing looks itech, so may be better than the b.m.w criuse control. asuming ther idea is that it prevents your wrist from aching and your fingers from going dead! I use one of theses http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Throttle-Aid-Clamp-Over-Cruise-Control-Fits-7-8-And-1-Bars-/270822656332?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f0e49c94c fitted in 2 seconds and works a treat, 3,200 miles around france,swiz alps and italy on the zzr1400 and 1,000 miles around northwales,tenby,ilfracombe,
landsend,torquay on the gtr1400 and had no problem lifting my pint in the evening, or anythink eles I wanted to do ;) or felt I needed to do ;D
Tried them 2kwaks and could gat on with them. Made my hand ache!
Advantage of the cruise control is on auto-route/bahns and motorways when you can relax your right hand a bit.
Electronic/vacuum ones llike this maintain speed up inclines or down hills too keeping it constant and legal. Also keeps the fuel flow constant so (should) maintain fuel efficiency.
A lot of it is having confidence in the system getting used to it.
Must admit it is a bit of a bottle tester first time you try one you fitted yourself!
Im with winston on this , however most bikers do tend to have a fear of cruise controls, fair enough. I just love the comfort of being able to rest the right wrist now and then.
I really dont like the clamp on types, the bikes speed is up and down like a tarts duvet and anything that clamps my throttle on without a safety cut out is a bit risky.
If you are the kinda guy who asks for help changing a bulb then this aint for you
I like the concept of cruise control on a bike but I would definately not consider myself confident enough to start such a big project. Viper I do however like the look of those air horns. Do you have an idiots guide to fitting them, I might just be capable of doing that. :) Mines an older model to yours but presumably there would still be room for those beasts.
(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s139/Jaffa_Cake101/Fingers/100_1484.jpg)
+1 for the airhorns. I never noticed them first time around
Quote from: Lonewolf on January 15, 2012, 01:37:41 PM
I like the concept of cruise control on a bike but I would definately not consider myself confident enough to start such a big project. Viper I do however like the look of those air horns. Do you have an idiots guide to fitting them, I might just be capable of doing that. :) Mines an older model to yours but presumably there would still be room for those beasts.
(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s139/Jaffa_Cake101/Fingers/100_1484.jpg)
Thery are full car size
Basically locate them as i have , you may have to get the compressor pushed down into the lower fairing, use cable ties to secure everything. Pull the wires off your original horns and pull them back along the loom and they will be long enough to fit onto your new horns . Try the direct wiring approach and they should work fine.
Mine are wired slightly different , through a 4 pin relay comming off my home made Fusebox, relays are usually the best way to go for max current but yours should work fine the way I said.
They are loud and the way ive positioned them gets the sound out through the vents
Hi
Dragging up this old thread
I am looking at fitting cruise control to my trike.
Looking at the install I assume this as this unit controls the throttle it will also cause the hand grip to rotate, so you can not keep hold of the grip or you will prevent it working properly?
Thanks
Richard
yes the hand throttle grip will rotate with the revs of the bike . However the amount it moves is actually very small and you can keep a light grip of the throttle without causing any problems. TBH i tend to place my hand on the fluid resevoir just above which gives me bar control. The throttle grip actually only moves a very small amount and you will be hard pressed to actually see it move at all.
You are going to set your cruise when you are going at 50 0r 60 mph and the throttle will move fractionally to maintain this, only if going up a very steep hill will you see it move.
Hi
OK thanks
I am looking at units that use a motor unit instead of a vacuum unit
Richard
yes , the stepper motor version is said to be better than the vacuum system.
just think over your throttle connections 20X and anything that need securing must be well thought out. Failure/fouling can be dangerous.
.
is the motor version the vistra one ?? if so it has a good reputation
only thing 1 will add about reliability is that this same unit was fitted to my zzr1200 in 2004 and i moved it over to my gtr in 2010 and it has never let me down. ive always taken a lot of trouble in making the installation as robust as possible. I instal when the bike is off the road and spend about a week on it .
Me again
I have done a load of reading..
Considering a unit like this http://www.bridgwater-electronics.co.uk/ap500-cruise-control-unit/p101
Intended for cars but I can see no reason not to use on the GTR.
Will link into the speed sensor on the drive shaft, can sort something to link it into the brake light circuit.
Thoughts .......
Richard
perhaps with something like CC , best not to be the one to re-make the wheel.
so , there are tried and true systems out there (Murphs , GoCruise) and loads of resources at COG / ZGGTR.
having said that , there is an electronic CC with my new GS LC. Its very unnerving at first , and maybe not something people would use often.
with the C14 , the buzziness kills your hands and maybe thats something that the CC may help to alleviate. If that is it , then the 50 cent yellow caterpillar rubber O-Ring will do the job just fine.
cheers.
.
Quote from: pistole on December 25, 2013, 11:53:30 PM
yes , the stepper motor version is said to be better than the vacuum system.
just think over your throttle connections 20X and anything that need securing must be well thought out. Failure/fouling can be dangerous.
.
I searched for the Stepper Motor Cruise Control and can't find it for sale anywhere.
I have looked at this one before but it does seem pricey.
http://www.mccruise.com/collections/kawasaki/products/27
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0163/1038/files/mcs4780_brochure.pdf
It can be bought from O.W.L. Vehicle Electronics of Tamworth
http://www.motorcyclecruise.co.uk/
http://www.motorcyclecruise.co.uk/pricelist.html
hi Debs.
the Audiovox system that Murphs sells is a vacuum system (ie, there is a vacuum servo run off the engine's intake vacuum to pull the throttle).
the ROSTRA system is the stepper motor system (ie , there is electrical motor which pulls the throttle cable). There are a few guides on COG & ZGGTR for the rostra setup.
from reading them , the conclusion is that the Rostra is the way to go (simpler setup , stable cruise and less things to fail).
.
over all that , is the McCruise system from Australia which is probably the best setup available. Custom made for a GTR setup. But VERY EXPENSIVE.
.
Quote from: Richard on December 26, 2013, 12:16:46 AM
Me again
I have done a load of reading..
Considering a unit like this http://www.bridgwater-electronics.co.uk/ap500-cruise-control-unit/p101
Intended for cars but I can see no reason not to use on the GTR.
Will link into the speed sensor on the drive shaft, can sort something to link it into the brake light circuit.
Thoughts .......
Richard
my audio vox CC links onto the coil for the speed sensor, you can get a plug and play lead to go straight onto the coil , it uses the pulses that goto the rev counter for the speed control It also has a connection for the rear brake light kill.
personally id always stick with CC's that other guys have used and tested on their bikes, you get honest reviews, a bit of support via the forums and even full installation tutorials. These installations aint for the faint hearted and support may be vital.
as ive said my Audio vox cc has been running for 10 years with zero issues. I believe the ristra one is good and if i had to buy again there is no reason why id not get that. I wouldnt consider anything else . Those COG guys know their stuff ( fred harmon) .
Quote from: viper on December 26, 2013, 01:16:30 PM
Those COG guys know their stuff ( fred harmon) .
Whats the link to their forum? :ohplease:
for debs
http://concours.org/concours-c14
I have used both and the Rostra is better than the Audiovox IMO because the Rostra does not require any vacuum to work. It also is a bit easier to wire into the bike because it picks up on the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on the bike, and the clutch switch can be used as the secondary disengage mechanism.
Not sure if or where the Rostra is avaiable in the UK (I am in the US) but they are about $200 or so here. Murph's has them for $240 but that includes the switch (most do not). There is a tutorial here on how to install one on a C-14 but I would watch that guy as he is a little shifty :-) http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/Rostra%20install.htm
Shipping overseas from the US has become absolutely astronomical in price. I shipped a component to Ireland a few days ago and it was $25 for shipping alone on a small box weighing less than 5 ounces. The Rostra is fairly heavy and I think would cost a lot to ship from the US to the UK.
It is a fairly involved installation that usually takes people a couple of days. Lots of electrical installation problems although we have managed to get everyone (I think) through to success at the other end.
By the way, the Rostra isn't a stepper motor device, just a plain old DC motor driving a belt which turns a screw that advances / retracts the throttle cable. It is not a bad system and a pretty good value for a full featured C.C.
Brian
Quote from: pistole on December 26, 2013, 02:54:03 AM
hi Debs.
the Audiovox system that Murphs sells is a vacuum system (ie, there is a vacuum servo run off the engine's intake vacuum to pull the throttle).
the ROSTRA system is the stepper motor system (ie , there is electrical motor which pulls the throttle cable). There are a few guides on COG & ZGGTR for the rostra setup.
from reading them , the conclusion is that the Rostra is the way to go (simpler setup , stable cruise and less things to fail).
.
over all that , is the McCruise system from Australia which is probably the best setup available. Custom made for a GTR setup. But VERY EXPENSIVE.
.
Quote from: BDF on December 28, 2013, 06:21:52 AM
I have used both and the Rostra is better than the Audiovox IMO because the Rostra does not require any vacuum to work. It also is a bit easier to wire into the bike because it picks up on the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on the bike, and the clutch switch can be used as the secondary disengage mechanism.
Not sure if or where the Rostra is avaiable in the UK (I am in the US) but they are about $200 or so here. Murph's has them for $240 but that includes the switch (most do not). There is a tutorial here on how to install one on a C-14 but I would watch that guy as he is a little shifty :-) http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/Rostra%20install.htm
Shipping overseas from the US has become absolutely astronomical in price. I shipped a component to Ireland a few days ago and it was $25 for shipping alone on a small box weighing less than 5 ounces. The Rostra is fairly heavy and I think would cost a lot to ship from the US to the UK.
It is a fairly involved installation that usually takes people a couple of days. Lots of electrical installation problems although we have managed to get everyone (I think) through to success at the other end.
By the way, the Rostra isn't a stepper motor device, just a plain old DC motor driving a belt which turns a screw that advances / retracts the throttle cable. It is not a bad system and a pretty good value for a full featured C.C.
Brian
thanks brian for your input , thats a great review . Ive seen the tutorial before but didnt know it was you ..... whey cool!.
if my Audiofox was to fail or I change the bike then Id go for the rostra next time, although my CC100 has been faultless for 10 years now . you are right about the expense of stuff coming in from the us, not only the shipping at your end but we also get another 25% added by customs, even if its marked as a gift. I used to get my sister who is in WV to send me stuff , she got me the CC100,
thanks again
Hi Brian
Thanks for that and the link to the guide, it will be very handy.
I have had a reply from http://www.bridgwater-electronics.co.uk/ap500-cruise-control-unit/p101 and their unit is £270 inc delivery so that's not bad compared to importing etc and its from a UK company so I will have a warranty etc.
The only problem I can see is the fact that the throttle grip will turn as it controlled by the cruise control so you can not leave your hand on it.
I have toyed with the idea of disconnecting the return cable and relying on the return spring, not sure its a good plan?
Then once the cruise control was engaged you could turn the grip back a bit so there was some slack in the cable then it would not turn as the cruise control did its thing, or maybe just increase the amount of play in the cables.
Richard
The throttle movement will be absolutely minimal, you will be pushed to see it. unless going up or down a steep hill the throttle adjusts by fractions to keep the revs steady . when you have it on the idea is that you rest your right hand, as i said earlier i hoold the front brake resevoir, its perfect !
Thanks for the kind words- I hope they have helped the occasional person in the UK.
It sounds like you have a C-10 (the first type of Concours, not sure what you call it but maybe a GTR 1000?); the Audiovox units seem to work better on them than the C-14s. Not sure why that is but it seems to be a vacuum issue.
For whatever reason, shipping internationally from the US is outrageously expensive. I recently shipped a small box to a gentleman in the UK and it cost me $25, which was the minimum available shipping charge for a package with tracking. Unbelievable. I purchase the occasional item from England and for the a small package weighing a few ounces, the shipping charges are more in the $3, $4 range. Maybe the Atlantic is bigger going east? :laugh: Add to the extreme shipping charges and your incoming (I believe) VAT tax and it just makes inexpensive items from the US virtually unobtainable.
Brian
Quote from: viper on December 28, 2013, 10:19:37 AM
thanks brian for your input , thats a great review . Ive seen the tutorial before but didnt know it was you ..... whey cool!.
if my Audiofox was to fail or I change the bike then Id go for the rostra next time, although my CC100 has been faultless for 10 years now . you are right about the expense of stuff coming in from the us, not only the shipping at your end but we also get another 25% added by customs, even if its marked as a gift. I used to get my sister who is in WV to send me stuff , she got me the CC100,
thanks again
Glad to help if I can Richard.
Yes, the throttle will move under your hand but if the Rostra is used, it will be very firm movement that your hand on the throttle will not bother. In fact, I don't think you could overcome the throttle movement from the CC by twisting the throttle grip easily if at all. No need to let the throttle grip go, you will quickly get used to the movement and as anther poster pointed out, the movement is very small anyway. Lots of people have installed CC's on motorcycles and I have never heard a complaint about the throttle moving under the rider's hand with the single exception of some installs of the Audiovox and even then only because the force provided by the CC is minimal and can be overcome with moderate hand pressure.
Just my opinion but I would not remove the return cable. It is there to provide a 'drop dead' safety net in the event the spring breaks or the throttle rod binds or anything similar and I think it is a very good idea.
If you do install one of these units, please feel free to contact me with any specific questions or concerns; I will help you out as best I can. It is an involved installation, and requires some light fabrication as well as some decent wiring skills but it is not out of the reach for the able or determined (better is both!) hobbyist. Of course there is some risk both to the rider if the CC binds or malfunctions in some other way, and and there is always some risk when one cuts into the electrical harness and makes changes on any vehicle but at least there is what I hope is a clear path to avoid any experimentation and reduce the risk of 'letting the smoke' out of any electrical parts on the bike.
Brian
Quote from: Richard on December 28, 2013, 01:00:51 PM
Hi Brian
Thanks for that and the link to the guide, it will be very handy.
I have had a reply from http://www.bridgwater-electronics.co.uk/ap500-cruise-control-unit/p101 and their unit is £270 inc delivery so that's not bad compared to importing etc and its from a UK company so I will have a warranty etc.
The only problem I can see is the fact that the throttle grip will turn as it controlled by the cruise control so you can not leave your hand on it.
I have toyed with the idea of disconnecting the return cable and relying on the return spring, not sure its a good plan?
Then once the cruise control was engaged you could turn the grip back a bit so there was some slack in the cable then it would not turn as the cruise control did its thing, or maybe just increase the amount of play in the cables.
Richard
Quote from: BDF on January 02, 2014, 08:07:57 PM
Thanks for the kind words- I hope they have helped the occasional person in the UK.
It sounds like you have a C-10 (the first type of Concours, not sure what you call it but maybe a GTR 1000?); the Audiovox units seem to work better on them than the C-14s. Not sure why that is but it seems to be a vacuum issue.
No , I have the 1400, My cruise control id fitted to a 2010 model and works brilliantly. the vac tubes are fitted to throttle body 1 and 4 and then T pieced into the vac canister I got from Murphs kits
Hath Already in use by the brain is very good, plus at no cost.
http://youtu.be/jZISbAEtx3U
MGvalerio :popcorn:
Hi
Nice video, and a very simple solution, must admit I am tempted by something simple like this instead of the full cruise control.
Richard
Quote from: Richard on January 05, 2014, 07:56:54 PM
Hi
Nice video, and a very simple solution, must admit I am tempted by something simple like this instead of the full cruise control.
Richard
just bear in mind that MG's mod is basically a wing nut that he screws into the throttle , do you really want your throttle jammed on!
Quote from: viper on January 06, 2014, 01:42:19 PM
just bear in mind that MG's mod is basically a wing nut that he screws into the throttle , do you really want your throttle jammed on!
:laugh:Viper does not say what ever understand.
http://youtu.be/tZ7UyUJzC2M
MGvalerio.
Quote from: Richard on January 05, 2014, 07:56:54 PM
Hi
Nice video, and a very simple solution, must admit I am tempted by something simple like this instead of the full cruise control.
Richard
Richard I have one of these....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Throttlemeister-Cruise-Control-Heavy-Black-87-12-Concours-ZG-1000-1400-Kawasaki-/140990539331?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d3b0e643
http://youtu.be/0PL6UzLjGe0
It don't keep the speed constant up the hills, but its good for any other times.. I use it just for short periods to rest my wrist on long rides
i use the yellow caterpillar o-ring
.
Hi
Yes I follow what it doing, as long as common sense was applied on how much it was tightened it should be fine, maybe a nylon wing bolt or a rubber end to reduce the chances of it ever jamming to thepoint you could not turn it back quickly if needed
Richard
Quote from: viper on January 06, 2014, 01:42:19 PM
just bear in mind that MG's mod is basically a wing nut that he screws into the throttle , do you really want your throttle jammed on!