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guide Preload Adjuster Repair

Started by Debs, May 01, 2014, 05:38:33 PM

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vfrtom

Great work Debs. Been said on here before but a regular squirt with ACF should prevent it happening again.
Tom

Burchy

When you knocked in the little pin, did it force itself into the plastic knob or was there a hole of sorts already there?

You'd think any decent mechanic at a Kawasaki dealer would be able to do that rather than say " buy a new shock"

Good job, Debs. 
2025 Versys1100SE<br />1993 ZXR400<br />1991 ZXR750R<br />1979 GS850G

Debs

It forced its self in to the plastic knob as the groove it sits in is to enable the knob to turn but not come out.

It makes more sense to repair it than throw it away for a new one.

Stephen.Stallebrass

Quote from: Burchy on May 03, 2014, 09:24:29 PM
When you knocked in the little pin, did it force itself into the plastic knob or was there a hole of sorts already there?

You read my mind.

Martin#30

Debs,

Just wanted to say thank you again for this. I finally got round to doing mine this weekend and it is a very simple job indeed. 45 minutes tops and most of that was the cleaning of the dismantled adjuster.

I am simply astounded that Kawasaki have been replacing so many of these under warranty when the fix is so straight-forward.

Martin.
65,000 miles now. Loving this bike.

Lonewolf

I still intend to do mine as it often gets quite stiff. I might wait till after the bike meet though just in case I  :censored:  It up.  :mfr_lol:

Moogus

Thought it might be useful to resurrect Debs advice on fixing a seized rear preload adjuster because....

Mine is seized and I wanted to know, before I follow Debs advice, do you actually remove the preload unit from the rubber pipe? Or remove the pin etc etc with the unit still attached, via the pipe, to the shock.

If yes might have a go myself then!  :shocked:

Many thanks

Burchy

Leave the flex pipe attached or you will be in a whole new world of trying to eliminate air from a closed system
2025 Versys1100SE<br />1993 ZXR400<br />1991 ZXR750R<br />1979 GS850G

O.C.

Quote from: Burchy on October 08, 2020, 12:10:29 PM
Leave the flex pipe attached or you will be in a whole new world of trying to eliminate air from a closed system

:agree:   
BE KIND...


ROG .

Moogus

Thanks guys, the shock looks fairly straightforward to remove so I think i'll have a go at the fix over the winter.
I don't suppose there's any chance of Deb's photo's being resurrected is there?
:cool:

O.C.

Quote from: Moogus on October 08, 2020, 07:23:57 PM
Thanks guys, the shock looks fairly straightforward to remove so I think i'll have a go at the fix over the winter.
I don't suppose there's any chance of Deb's photo's being resurrected is there?
:cool:

I think that only Debs can do that, unfortunately  she doesn't visit the site much, if at all,   these days.
BE KIND...


ROG .

Moogus


Freddy

#27
I did mine a few years ago.  The PO had tried and failed.  I drilled the hole in the top and used a punch to knock the cylinder down after supporting the knob on the vice jaws.  The lock pin is on the inside of the cyl and needs to be tapped in about 3mm in order to remove the knob.




O.C.

Once the offending item is 'freed'  then it is a good idea to protect the adjuster from further dirt ingress, such things as smeared grease or better still a kiddies balloon can be stretched over the knob, other items designed to be stretched over knobs could be applied :mfr_lol:   
BE KIND...


ROG .

Moogus

Excellent

Thanks for the pics. I'll definitely have a play over winter...need to renew front and rear pads as well.

Kiddies balloon or similar  :mfr_lol: