Start up noise and white oil residue

[jonkawasaki]

Hi folks

Noticed yesterday I have a little white residue in the oil filler cap but oil in the sump is black as normal. Couple of people have said a bit of white residue is normal but just wanted your opinions! Should I do oil and filter change?

On a seperate note. I have a little noise when starting from cold. Last no more than a second. Read a few of the threads on here and leads me to suspect its cam tensioner (or something along those lines?). Its quite an off putting noise and the garage said don't worry about it too much for now. Are they right to say this?? Last thing I want is engine failure!

Cheers folks.

[keith]

 white residue on your filler cap usually points to head gasket (water in your oil) dont know if your bike has been run much ,but if your bike has been laid up for a while you will get the white residue build up on your cap, and fogging up of your glass oil level indicator lens ,as mine was but once you take it out for a good run you will find that your glass lens will clear and the cap will be clean, i have had this on a lot of bikes when they haven't been run for a while. fingers crossed and hope thats all it is and not your head gasket   good luck.

[shaggs147]

Yeah it sounds like it might just be due to condensation. Has the bike been stood up for a while over winter? ........ As for the noise, it could be from the cam chain as you say. Mine rattles for a few seconds after starting, and then quietens down. I have read a lot of posts on this and it seems to be fairly common and is due to the oil draining back from the automatic tensioner at standstill as far as I'm aware.

[davetherave]

Hi,

Newbie on here myself but your questions aren't really GTR specific but general maintenance so I can help.

The white residue is condensation, do you ride short trips ? or have have been warming the bike up for a while but not riding ? I would change the oil and filter as it's a simple task, please bear in mind that modern oils take around 20 miles to thoughroly  to warm up and burn off any condensation.

The noise on start up, my is cam chain but I wouldn't overly worry, most kawasaki's do this but if it bothers you then ask your dealer (if you feel you can trust them).  You can buy a aftermaket APE tensioner, this is a mod poular with ZZR owners mostly in the states but as it's the same engine it should fit.

I hope this eases your mind

[Burchy]

Do you also notice that the noise goes away within a second or 2 and this coincides with a drop in revs.  probably only happens on the first cold start of the day?

I had this on my old GTR and it was low oil pressure until the pump got going and pushed the oil around.  The noise went away immediately after an oil change but came back as the oil deteriorated

BTW I would say that black moil in the sump was normal.  You really want to see golden or brown oil.  Black is full of carbon and needs changing lickety split

[jonkawasaki]

The bike is used almost daily but only for 2 seperate 30 minute trips which might explain why I'm not evaporating the condensation. Think I will take it for a long run on saturday followed by oil and filter change next week.  Although slightly worried it might be head gasket....any other signs this might be the route cause? At present I have a minor rattle (tapping noise mirrors engine revs) from the front half of the bike (I can't pinpoint the sound exactly), is this linked?

Out of interest if I sent the bike into the garage to get the cam checked or replaced what sort of cost would I be looking at?

[jonkawasaki]

Do you also notice that the noise goes away within a second or 2 and this coincides with a drop in revs.  probably only happens on the first cold start of the day?

I had this on my old GTR and it was low oil pressure until the pump got going and pushed the oil around.  The noise went away immediately after an oil change but came back as the oil deteriorated

BTW I would say that black moil in the sump was normal.  You really want to see golden or brown oil.  Black is full of carbon and needs changing lickety split

Yes only when cold! Interesting comments...I'm beginning to think I really need an oil and filter change sooner rather than later! The oil is deep black and the filter looks as if its seen a fair few miles!

[Burchy]

I'd do the oil before doing the long run.  Its only a 10 minute job. 

Sounds like a short trip to BurchyKawasaki might be in order

[jonkawasaki]

Given my everyday riding would I be better using fully synthetic or semi synthetic? Cost not an issue, I want the best for the bike! Also inclined to change the oil quite frequently to make sure oil stays prime.

[O.C.]

Some emulsification (water & oil ingress) can take place in winter months especially if a bike has been laid up.

The fact is that any amount of water in oil will reduce the oils performance proportionately.

I would recommend that you change the oil and filter and try again, chances are that the noise will reduce/disappear.

When you've heard a noise for the first time you will find that you are listening for it thereafter, and any major problem would be a loud noise anyway 

[shaggs147]

Oil is black? How long have you had it in there Jon? 
Maybe you have the diesel model 

[Lonewolf]

Use semi synthetic, the qualities of semi synthetic far out weighs the requirements of the engine. However if you choose to use fully synthetic you wont cause any damage, but you will be wasting your money.

[Bryn]

Use semi synthetic, the qualities of semi synthetic far out weighs the requirements of the engine. However if you choose to use fully synthetic you wont cause any damage, but you will be wasting your money.

True, unless you got 12 litres of Castrol Power 1 fully synth from Tesco last summer at £2.50 a litre   

[Lonewolf]

True, unless you got 12 litres of Castrol Power 1 fully synth from Tesco last summer at £2.50 a litre   

Very true! 

[2kwacks]

short bike runs in cold weather will not allow the oil to reach the temp so you will get condensation misting/clouding in the oil glass window but like a few have already said, a good long run will burn off any condensation I often use my bike for work and that's only 5 mile trip which causes condensation and clouds the sight glass, but it's not a big problem and there is no need to change your oil if under your own mileage or time changes but if your doing lots of short runs, and taking into consideration that condensation turns to water which is not going to do your oil any favours so after a short rides this time of the year, I unscrew the oil cap and place it loosely on the thread on a slight angle leaving just a few mm so the engine can breath, then after a few hours you will find your sight glass is clear of any clouding or any condensation just remember to replace your cap before you ride off