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Screens a slight improvement.

Started by Rat, August 23, 2011, 04:09:39 PM

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Rat

 :-\ Owned numerous bikes, naked, street fighter, tourer etc, etc, all those dedicated to fast touring have had issues with the screen. ie FJR, Strom, GTR, I have tried many types including those tested and developed in the aero industry in the States, frankly all did not work for me, 6 foot tall, some were far worse than original and all a disapointment. the last one bought was from  MRA I think and that didn't seem to work either, the flip up bit was not particularly well made either. However I persisted and have found that will flip up to max, and screen up to max it is slightly improved enough to be whatching the speedo as triple digits arrive with ease. I,m almost certain that a slight rise in the "Flip bit" or mounting slightly higher, or slightly bigger would improve it further, a Gel seat ie lowering a inch would help to.
       
                                 Can't understand why some boffin at Uni hasn't studied this, so come on instead of fitting concrete blocks in the nose of a Euro fighter (87 million each) sort bike screens out, please!!
                    Note only bikes the screen worked 1/ Guzzi Cali EV, large, Flat, Why? but well forward?    Aprillia Falco double bubble more sports but generaly absoultely great  Regards the Rat

Boomer

In my experience any flips or other contouring on a screen just creates turbulence.
I use a CalSci +6" (over stock 2008) and it's excellent when fully up.
Probably too tall for you but provides me with a nice quiet, turbulence free area whilst I still look over the screen.

I've tried contoured screens (Cee Baileys on GTR1000, PowerBronze on GTR1000, V-Stream on GTR1400) and they all create lots more turbulence around your head than plain screens.
So, my GTR1000 has a Rifle system screen with a 22" home-made screen on the 5" Rifle base.
My GTR1400 has the CalSci XL +6" and whilst it's a bit noisy with the screen down, screen up is superb.
George "Boomer" Garratt
Wickford, UK
http://www.gtr1000.com

Rat

 ;)Thanks for that, like me you seem to have been round "the mill" i take it you are well over 6 foot, it is strange that all these claims for screens can't be correct. One screen I try'd claimed that the inner pressure behind the screens was increased forcing the airstream up at the top of the blade by  two holes/cut out at the base? The cut outs were very small and no attempt to smoothly bend the air up inside the screen. Frankly i thought it would just create turbulence, and noticed on both the FJR and GTR that there is a letterbox cut out channel anyway?

                                                                              Odd regards Rat   

Boomer

I'm 6'4" with a long back.
My "ldeal" screen would probably be the new CalSci XL as it's 1.5" taller than the one I have.
A plain screen with a vent is much better than any of the contoured screens.
Only problem then would be that screen down it would be too high and probably noisier.
George "Boomer" Garratt
Wickford, UK
http://www.gtr1000.com

Rat

 ;)I'm sure you are right ,my suspicion is that the original manufacturer Kwaker knows exactly how to cure this ,the solution would probably be move the screen well forward (like the Guzzi) but this doesn't look right or "sell" the bike, which is one of the smartest looking sports tourers. As mentioned would have thought by now a design graduate would be posting photos etc of different design screens + riders with air flow in a wind tunnel. May be they have but I haven't seen them? A lot of the claims from manufacturers are simply not right.
                                                                 might make a couple of ali spacer bars to move the screen forward and sharpen the angle, by doing so the letter box becomes larger and would have more of a scoop effect, i'm sure it can be improved.
                                                                                                 Regards the Rat

Boomer

Perhaps it needs a double mechanism.  ???
You know, mount a black fake screen to the existing adjusters like the Rifle base, but with a built in adjuster that could move the screen attached to it.
That way you could get 4" of adjustment with the stock and another 4" with the piggyback one.
Hmmmmmmm, how to make such an adjuster slim enough?
Time to do some drawings.......
George "Boomer" Garratt
Wickford, UK
http://www.gtr1000.com

Rat

 :oNever seen a Rifle base but i see where your coming from almost two screens sandwiched together, perhaps a very simple slot or handle at the top simply pull it up, to prove the principal and ideal height, then think about the mechanism. We have tiny stainless chain at work, there are very small cylinders etc. I think however two minature rack and pinions possably connected by a fiberglass drive shaft (like tent poles only 4mm OD) could curve with the screen and provide drive, via a knob at one side , the rack ensures squareness and stability infinate adjustment on the move and the potential to attach power.
                                                                Spacers my first port of call I think should be 30mm wide at bottom, 16 at top, might bash them out of wood first. Note have used wood in experiment many times, in one particular incident, a jumped up half witt (manager) at work attempted to ridicule a similar suggestion, I was not amused and had to point out that some guy called Geff, i think, Dehavilland made that bit of crap called the
                                                                              Mosquito out of wood, enough said   Rat.
                                                                                                                                             

Rat

 ;)Had a look at the beast again, it seemed then obvious that a fairly simple attachment to the original mount would give adjustment to whatever screen you have. If you used the original screws to bolt a retangular bar of X thickness, extending upwards by about 125mm, then  the screen can be attached at experimental heights in any position you like. It will not return to the flush lower setting and be forward by the thickness of the bar, unless you make a dog leg affair.

Note the Kwaker mount is curved, and the MRA screen is curved, but not the same curvature!! at least on mine, initialy this could be allowed for using a feeler guage and washers, perhaps when proved a nice hand fettled bit of ali or casting could be made.

A Rolls Royce job would be to piviot the top mount and make the botton adjustable, ie in and out therefore altering the angle of attack and the "letter box scoop at the bottom of the screen to eliviate the percieved low pressure behind the blade. Time to get the files out and set the mill up.

                                                                  Regards Rat  07788510474

aljaxon

sorry to resurrect a very old thread but did spacers work or help?
Paloma D.A.S.L moped 1959
Puch M50 sports 1973
Yamaha RD350A 1974
Kawasaki ZX9R C2 1999
Kawasaki Z1000SX 2018

Bryn

I picked up my 2009 bike last year, with a standard screen and rode it 120 miles home...and on the way was thinking I'd made a big mistake... the screen was terrible, and the standard seat uncomfortable.

A Calsci large screen has totally transformed the bike, and a Top Sellerie seat has sorted things out in the posterior department.

I'm 5'9" tall, with a 30" inseam .. the bike seems to fit me well now   :yes:

aljaxon

yeah im thinking a lower seat and taller or different profile screen would get your head out of the way of the buffeting.
thx for advice
Paloma D.A.S.L moped 1959
Puch M50 sports 1973
Yamaha RD350A 1974
Kawasaki ZX9R C2 1999
Kawasaki Z1000SX 2018

mecki

I finally got myself a Laminar Lip a few weeks ago and I must say it is a real improvement over the stock 2011 screen.
The later you brake the longer you go fast.