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[Guide] Front brake pad replacement

Started by Kwikasfuki, March 27, 2011, 02:16:14 AM

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pembsgtr

One thing to watch with copperslip is that it doesn't get anywhere near the brake piston "O" ring seals, they will speed up perishing of the rubber apparentlr  ;D

Kwikasfuki

The rear breaks have some sort of anti squeal technology built in. So far I'm using the OEM Kawasaki pads on the front and they haven't required any copper grease yet
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Kwikasfuki

I spoke too soon about copper grease. I've put some on the rear of the pads, the two ends of the spring that contact the housing and on the pin. This is both for the front and rear.
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Nygie

Nice how too NB.
Thats exactly the same toothbrush I used to use for my caliper cleaning.
Time for a new one tho! Our lass is going to be pissed off again!! :o

Kwikasfuki

Quote from: Nygie on April 13, 2011, 07:29:13 AM
Nice how too NB.
Thats exactly the same toothbrush I used to use for my caliper cleaning.
Time for a new one tho! Our lass is going to be pissed off again!! :o

I couldn't find the one I used for the front brakes so I grabbed another for the rear. The missus will have a fit if she finds out. Bought myself one of the electric ones instead and then thought, why not get a cheap electrical one for the bike? Would come in use for agitating any dirt in hard to reach places.
Find the forum useful? Please think about donating<br /><br />Kawasaki 1400GTR 2009 - 2012<br />Honda XLV1000 Varadero  2007 - 2009<br />Suzuki DL650 V-Strom 2005 - 2008<br />Kawasaki GPZ 500s 2004 - 2005<br />Yamaha SR125 2003 - 2004

fatharry

Quote from: Norman Bates on April 13, 2011, 09:51:59 AM
Quote from: Nygie on April 13, 2011, 07:29:13 AM
Nice how too NB.
Thats exactly the same toothbrush I used to use for my caliper cleaning.
Time for a new one tho! Our lass is going to be pissed off again!! :o

I couldn't find the one I used for the front brakes so I grabbed another for the rear. The missus will have a fit if she finds out. Bought myself one of the electric ones instead and then thought, why not get a cheap electrical one for the bike? Would come in use for agitating any dirt in hard to reach places.

don't you have to be a bit careful in and around the seals to make sure you don't apply too much pressure ???
It's not a case of whether we can fix it or not - it's more a case of how fixed would you like it?

Kwikasfuki

I was thinking more of using an electric toothbrish for the wheels!
Find the forum useful? Please think about donating<br /><br />Kawasaki 1400GTR 2009 - 2012<br />Honda XLV1000 Varadero  2007 - 2009<br />Suzuki DL650 V-Strom 2005 - 2008<br />Kawasaki GPZ 500s 2004 - 2005<br />Yamaha SR125 2003 - 2004

Dive1082

Great Pics and advice.  I love changing my brakes as I hate paying the dealer £50+ in labour charges!




Quote from: Norman Bates on March 27, 2011, 02:16:14 AM
Finally had time to do some maintenance work on bike so decided to do brakes, and a good thing too as I'd have been trying to stop with metal scraping against metal.

Disclaimer: these are pics of what I did today. If you want your pads changing, I suggest you refer to a qualified mechanic.















































See first pic for fitting torque. Now to do the other caliper!


A friend in need....Is a pain in the a**

Kwikasfuki

Remember to put some copper grease on the rear of the pads and on the spring
Find the forum useful? Please think about donating<br /><br />Kawasaki 1400GTR 2009 - 2012<br />Honda XLV1000 Varadero  2007 - 2009<br />Suzuki DL650 V-Strom 2005 - 2008<br />Kawasaki GPZ 500s 2004 - 2005<br />Yamaha SR125 2003 - 2004

Kwikasfuki

And - I can't stress how important this is - if you think the bolts need replacing because they are rounding off, get them replaced. Because one day you'll come to replace the pads and the hex key will just turn.

Don't expect dealer to replace
Find the forum useful? Please think about donating<br /><br />Kawasaki 1400GTR 2009 - 2012<br />Honda XLV1000 Varadero  2007 - 2009<br />Suzuki DL650 V-Strom 2005 - 2008<br />Kawasaki GPZ 500s 2004 - 2005<br />Yamaha SR125 2003 - 2004

1ka

Cheers for the pics, much appreciated.
Too good a day to die

howard

Hi
When changing your pads it is advisiable to remove master cyclinder cap as you push the pistons back slowly the fluid returns to the cyclinder,allways put a rag round the cylinder and protect your paint work. Your new pads will feel soft for the 1st few miles...H

SirToU

Can I make a couple of suggestions.

1) before! Pushing the pistons home, make sure you brush the dirt off the pistons, otherwise you are effectively forcing the dirt, inside/against the seals.

2) IMO.. Not much point putting copper slip on the top and bottom - doesn't touch anything and just collects dirt... Better off putting it on the sides where the pads are guided by the caliper. Metal to metal connection.

Question - just interested in how old your bike is and number of miles?

Thanks

Neil
Ride it like it was stolen...
Motogymkhana UK Champion 2011-2014

Foody

These are good photos and it is good to do your own jobs on the bike but my mechanical knowledge is very limited....... So I will be posting a series of equally clear photos..... Of me..... Putting petrol in...!

Nice one.

Kwikasfuki

My bike?

08 model with 42k on clock
Find the forum useful? Please think about donating<br /><br />Kawasaki 1400GTR 2009 - 2012<br />Honda XLV1000 Varadero  2007 - 2009<br />Suzuki DL650 V-Strom 2005 - 2008<br />Kawasaki GPZ 500s 2004 - 2005<br />Yamaha SR125 2003 - 2004