Extra Fuse Box

[Debs]

Oh yes OC... I meant to say that the 8 wires will be in the heat shrink sleeve all the way from the fuse box to the front.. 

[alibx11]

Sounds like a decent setup Debs but don't see why you would need to cover the wiring in heat shrink all the way as that negates the fact that your using different colours wires for purposes of differentiating  the separate wiring looms. I only ever use the heat shrink for the connection ends to prevent shorting and create a waterproof join if need be.

Hope the alternator stand up to all the abuse it's going to get....

I always used to install a voltmeter on my previous bikes and it was surprising the difference in dropped voltage when headlights, heated grips, and a few other accessories were on.

[doebag]

Oh yes OC... I meant to say that the 8 wires will be in the heat shrink sleeve all the way from the fuse box to the front.. 

Debs
to form a new loom, don't use heat shrink. Use PVC non adhesive tape, or spiral binding or twistwrap sleeving. You can then feed out individual wires to where they are needed and it makes it easier to trace faults in the future.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/sleeving/tape.php

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/sleeving/sleeving.php#slitharness

Alibx has a point about the battery. I am not sure how much spare wattage the alternator gives on our bikes. It may pay to total up the extra power all your additions will be using. With them all working it may be possible to drain the battery even with the engine running.

[trousersnake01]

Wouldn't the on board volt meter show less then 12 volts if there was a problem with everything on ?

When I have everything on when riding it shows 14.2 v and at a tick over just 14v.

[alibx11]

Technically yes mate, if the onboard Voltmeter is accurate, problem is these things are made as a guide only not an accurate measuring meter, it's good enough to show a significant drop to indicate a fault but not necessarily an accurate reading, as the owners manual states.

Good batteries usually read around 12.2v - 12.6v with the ignition on, when running it should read min 14v as you say to keep charged, anything above 16v and your battery is getting cooked ( check the rectifier ) , below 12v and your using more power than the bike is reproducing.

Don't know what farkles you have on yours but Debs seems to be well laden.. the Sat nav, phone charger, Dab radio shouldn't be a heavy load but the  Hot grips, extra spotlights, and air-horn will be a heavy load if all on at once, added to the existing running load of lights, indicator lights, injectors, general mechanical load, it can all add up very quickly.

The standard Pan Euro alternator was a weak point on the early bikes, it burned out rather quickly, it came with a 55amp alternator and had to be upgraded by Honda to a 75amp one to run the police kit and farkles people added to make the bikes a decent tourer.

Like I say it depends what you have installed as extra load on your bike.

[Debs]

Im not intending to have it all running at once.. Maybe at a push I will have the spot lights on, heated grips & Sat nav.. but certainly wont be for a long period of time... So far Ive not had a problem with it. All Im going to do is tidy it all up on to its own loom...

I understand and now agree about not using heat shrink..
It wouldn't have been covered up 2" at the start and end of the wires so I would not have had a problem to see which wire went to which fuse.

When I do eventually start on this I will post pics as I go along.. Looks like it will be quite a few hours work as im a bit of a perfectionist.   

[O.C.]

correct Debs...my suggestion with the heat shrink was that it should add further protection to the soldered joints...its a belt and bracers approach