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Exhaust Questions

Started by Mark W, November 14, 2010, 09:59:45 PM

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fatharry

Was the Beowulf easy to fit......do like the look of it, find the 2009 exhaust a bit bulky without the panniers ???
It's not a case of whether we can fix it or not - it's more a case of how fixed would you like it?

Winston Smith

Four is fun.  Six is sex.

I Dream of a World where Chickens can Cross the Road without having their Motives Questioned

fatharry

It's not a case of whether we can fix it or not - it's more a case of how fixed would you like it?

dasad

Hi. I have  beowulf Warrior and sounds n looks good..


Lonewolf

Its just up the road virtually from where I live is the Beowulf factory. Popped in a few times for various things, radiator guards, etc. Staff there are very knowledgable and helpful.

Andy

Quote from: 2kwacks on February 13, 2011, 09:52:18 PM
Quote from: Andy on February 13, 2011, 09:27:33 PM
I'm waiting for a Vance & Hines CS2 Black from USA  :)
pics please when there fitted. that even may convert me, the beowulf have came close must admit!

Bike was delivered on Tuesday, Exhaust still in box. There are a few videos on youtube :-)
2010 Magnesium "11" reg
www.facebook.com/stenton

1 kwack 1 yam

Quote from: Lonewolf on February 13, 2011, 07:59:44 AM
Why not keep the original can but do the cut down mod? There's a step by step guide on here.

Lonewolf, Can you please tell me where I can find the step by step guide to the cut down mod on the original exhaust.....I've looked eveywhere and can't find it! Also,do any other mods need to be done ie., mapping
My needs are very few. It's my wants that are expensive!

Lonewolf

Here you go....

I dont think any re-mapping is required. I believe its a simple chop down and away you go.  ;D

Remove the pipe and take off the rear end cap (3 screws).

I used a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a 50 grit flap wheel sanding disc for most of the grinding but I had to use my smaller 4" one with just a regular grinding disc in a couple of places in the corners. The flap wheel disc does a much smoother job.

Grind from the end of the muffler carefully removing material until you just see the parting line between the end cap and the outside muffler body.

Work your way carefully all the way around.


When you can see the parting line all the way around, take a very sharp narrow tool like a gasket scraper and tap it into the parting line to gently separate the 2 parts. I had my son hold onto the muffler body while I pulled out the guts of the muffler. It takes a fair amount of effort to pull it out. The mark you see all the way around the end of the muffler is just dirt that was under the end cap, this gives you an idea how much it will cover when you put it back on.




Just pull out the inside portion of the muffler. It looks like this inside, there is a layer of steel wool type material that sits right up against the guts of the muffler and surrounding that is 2 layers of fibreglass muffler packing like I use on my dirt bike muffler when I repack them. This will all have to be removed carefully from the muffler case and wrapped around the guts when you put it back together.


The baffle portion looks like this.




I cut 4" off the front end of the baffle using a cutting disc in my 4" angle grinder. As you can see in the picture that removes the spark arrestor screen from the baffle.



I then carefully measured 4" from the end of the muffler case and made a line all the way around the outside and marked it with masking tape. Then I cut off the 4" piece using a cutting disc in the angle grinder again. Make sure to wear a dust mask as some of the muffler packing will be cut and I'm not sure what it's made from. It could cause irritation if you breathe it in.


Here are the 2 pieces removed, 4" from the FRONT of the baffle and 4" from the REAR of the muffler case.


Make sure to test fit the baffle into the muffler case before you wrap on the packing. If you did not cut enough off the baffle there will be a gap between the end of the muffler case and the baffle end cap. I took the packing material out of the inside of the muffler case and installed it on the outside of the baffle. The baffle will not go back into the case without folding the packing material and pushing it all to the front of the muffler. I wrapped the steel wool stuff on first and wrapped it with masking tape in a few places to hold it tight. Then I wrapped the fibreglass material around that and again used some wraps of masking tape to hold it in place. The masking tape will eventually burn away. Some people use mechanics wire but I prefer masking tape. I forgot to take a picture of it before I pushed it back into the muffler case. This takes a little patience; make sure the packing slides in without bunching up.

When the baffle was back in the muffler I soaked an old tee shirt in water and laid it on the muffler case very close to the weld so the heat from the welding would not burn the paint.


Go slowly here, I just did 3 small spots at a time then allowed it to cool a bit before going on. I used small vice grips to pull the muffler case down to meet the end cap of the baffle. Move to a different spot often during welding so you spread the heat evenly and avoid distortion. When all the welding has been done you may need to remove a little material so the aluminium cap will fit back over the end of the muffler.


A little high temperature black paint (semi gloss) will prevent rust. If you have been careful none of this will be visible when the aluminium end cap is back in place.


Now just install the cap and bolt it back on. As you can see the end of the muffler extends just back of the pannier now and looks better. I don't think anyone who isn't familiar with the bike would even know it's been modified. It sounds stock except it is very slightly louder.


And the finished product......





1 kwack 1 yam

Thanks Lonewolf, the things you can find out on this site are unbelievable. 8)
My needs are very few. It's my wants that are expensive!

Andy

Got my m8 to fit it :-)
2010 Magnesium "11" reg
www.facebook.com/stenton

Lonewolf

I like the look of that.  :)

KeVstrom

Just looking at the cut down guide. Has anyone done this and how has it effected the noise level?
Kev Shek
View my ride ---->HERE. My old DL found ---->HERE

Deon

Why not try a Freeflow systems stubby,very neat, no re map, great sound with or without baffle, good quality (made by Beowulf from all accounts) and the best bit -- it's just over a hundred quid on e bay! I did with no regrets at all.


Any pics of this ? Would like to see it.

Deon


viper

im just not into changing the exhaust, noisy bikes do nothing for me and i find it annoying when other riders makes theirs noisy. Baffle removed bikes gives us all a bad name when riding through little country villages , IMO

i have heard of some dealers trying to use the after market exhaust as a get out clause on warranty work, if its related, like the loosing header bolts or engine mountings .

so for me id keep the panniers on to mask the pig ugly spud launcher and spend your money on better clothing / protection or a safety related modification to your bike/ engine bars 

I like quiet bikes